大香賓許榮一旗袍
穠纖合度 再現婉約東方味

旗袍,是專為東方女子體態量身訂作的服飾,削肩、纖腰、骨感的人,穿出纖細動人的韻致;豐腴肉感的人則穿出盈潤富貴的風華。許榮一(1944~,台灣雲林)先生,十八歲那年離鄉背井來到台北,跟隨一位上海師傅學作旗袍,經歷三年又四個月艱辛而漫長的學徒生涯,從基本的量體、打版、制圖,剪裁、縫紉、上邊、縫鈕合,層層繁瑣的工序,哪兒該收哪兒該放,多一分、少一分都不行;即使一枚盤扣,也得別出心裁。顧盼旗袍店一匹匹花色繽紛的布料,成為一件件挺直別緻的手工旗袍,每一道針線都凝聚著老師傅的心血結晶。而今,大香賓旗袍歷經四十個年頭,依然在成衣市場的狂潮中屹立不搖。

旗袍是從滿族古老的服裝演變而來的。旗袍,滿語或「衣介」。古時泛指滿洲、蒙古、漢軍八旗男女穿的衣袍。清朝時旗袍慢慢普及,衣袍式樣有幾大特點:無領、箭袖、左衽、四開襟、束腰。到了二十世紀二○~四○年代,旗袍造型臻於成熟,成為中國時裝的代表,而有Chinese dress之稱。二十世紀三○年代,滿族男女都穿直統式的寬襟大袖長袍。女性旗袍下擺至小腿,繡花卉紋飾。男性旗袍下擺及踝,無紋飾。40年代後,受到國內外新潮服飾的衝擊,滿族男性旗袍已廢棄,女性旗袍由寬袖變窄袖,直筒變緊身貼腰,臂部略大,下擺回收,長及踝。逐漸形成今日各色各樣講突色彩裝飾的旗袍樣式。

旗袍的形式百年來並沒有太大的變化,它密實包裏的基本形式,襯著裸露的臂膀、開叉的裙擺,引人無限遐想,隨著柳腰擺動,步覆輕移,布料花色隨之起伏,挑逗著視覺,也撩撥著人心。近幾年來,服飾時尚圈看準旗袍的獨特魅惑,重新將旗袍元素帶入時裝流行風潮,受到國內外明星的矚目,帶動傳統旗袍的時代風尚。

Hsu Rong-I and his Daxiangbin qi-pao

Qi-paotraditional Chinese dressis a costume specifically tailored for displaying the shape of oriental women. For skinny ladies with small shoulders and slim waist, qi-pao can show their delicacy and personal charm. For those who are full and round, it can express the smoothness and sumptuousness of their shape. Hsu Ron-I1994left his home at 18 to learn qi-pao making with a Shanghai tailor in Taipei. After 40 months of apprenticeshp, he finally became a master of his own. Form measuring, drafting, drawing, cutting, sewing, sealing, sewing buttons etc, he could master every step of the sophisticated process. As a dedicated tailor, he everything part of the piece must fit the customer's shape exactly. Even a button, he must do his best to make it special. When we look at the works in his shop, it is no surprise that every piece is the fruit of painstaking labor of this old master. Today, the Daxiangbin Qi-pao shop has been standing in the garment market for over 40 years.

Address:6F.-2, No.122, Bo-ai Rd., Jhongjheng District, Taipei City 10043, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
TEL:886-02-23613336

文取自 2005巧手.天工-老工藝在台北
出  版:台北市立社會教育館
www.tmseh.gov.tw
展出策劃:財團法人中華民俗藝術基金會
出版日期:中華民國94年6月初版

創作者介紹

榮一唐裝(褀)旗袍(中国服とチャイナドレス專門店)

許家小媳 發表在 痞客邦 PIXNET 留言(0) 人氣()